We thought supper was to be provided at the hostel last night but when we arrived the warden apologetically explained that he would instead order takeaway pizzas for us from the place we had passed a couple of kilometres down the road. That worked out well, they delivered two huge Quattro Staggioni pizzas and a good bottle of sangiovese. We engaged in an enjoyable conversation with the hostel guardian in a mixture of English, French and the miniscule Italian which we have. It is amazing how when humans want to chat we find a way to do so despite the barriers of language. We talked quite a lot about dogs sharing pictures on our smartphones. He had a Bull Mastiff though not at the ostello. We talked about the wild boar diggings we’d seen in the oak forests. He also told us about the increasing population of wolves in the Apennines. On one occasion he’d been stood outside the door having a smoke when not just one but three wolves sauntered past him on the road!
Breakfast was to be had at the cafe/bar a couple of kilometres up the road, but when we got there we found it closed for holidays. Fortunately we still had the filled rolls we hadn’t eaten for lunch yesterday so we didn’t go completely hungry.
Although disappointed about the closed cafe/bar we were pleased to see that the other side of the pass was in bright sunshine, which lifted our spirits again. Passo della Cisa stands at 1041m above sea level, and is both the Apennine watershed and the boundary between the provinces of Emilia Romagna, where we’ve been since Piacenza, and Toscana or Tuscany as we English call it. Once we have crossed Tuscany we shall be almost in Rome, so we are making progress, with more milestones to celebrate today.
One of the common roadsigns around here states that snow-chains must be carried between 15 November and 15 April, which seems incongruous in the mild weather we’ve been experiencing. Everyone tells us this mild weather is exceptional for November, and judging by the large pile of road salt we found near the pass the locals are leaving nothing to chance. Tom initially thought the small building next to the salt pile was for men working on the road to shelter, but it actually houses a small shrine. The cross on the top was probably the giveaway!
After the closed restaurant at the pass we walked past three more closed restaurants, our hopes of a warm coffee and second breakfast repeatedly dashed. We were wryly amused at the car park for one of the restaurants. Did the driver try to leave without paying the restaurant bill?!
After about three kilometres walking down the road, we had to make a decision: whether to continue on the road, or follow the VF walking route to descend into the valley and ascend the other side, or use a route for VF horse riders on the same side of the valley we were on. We decided on a compromise: to follow the VF walking route down into the valley, but then pick up another minor road to contour down to Pontremoli, avoiding a second climb and steep descent. That choice gave us a good view back to the Passo della Cisa, still shrouded in fog billowing up from the other side, as well as views of the valley we were going to be descending.
Before starting what turned out to be a long and steep descent of about 700 metres, we first had to climb up to an obelisk on top of a spur, La Cucchero, at 994 metres. Unfortunately the explanatory sign had decayed, but the monument seemed to have something to do with the churches in the surrounding valleys as each side of the plinth had images of 2-3 churches with the names of the villages lying in that direction. We later realised the pillar was visible for miles in every direction, serving as a focal point for the surrounding villages. It appeared to have been erected by a local priest – perhaps to represent the churches within his benefice?
Just before the village of Cavezzana d’Antena we passed a delightful small olive and walnut grove tucked away in a small bowl in the shelter of the hillside and trees. The village had extensive allotments still producing a wide range of vegetables, including enormous cabbages like we’d seen in other places. The growing season is evidently a lot longer this far south than in Hampshire. By this time we were below the level of the A15 motorway which at this point is on a viaduct high above the village after having passed through a tunnel under the Passo della Cisa. It reminded us of the great tradition of civil engineering expertise that exists in this mountainous country.
The going was both steep and rough, with lots of loose irregular lumps of stone to twist ankles on. It required a lot of concentration to avoid slipping or falling. In all, the 700 metre descent took us an exhausting couple of hours, and hammered our toes, calves and knees. But the trees and occasional views were wonderfully colourful in the autumn sunlight, with many leaves still green and contrasting with those that have begun to change colour.
After Julie sprained one ankle and then the other, and Tom’s left achilles started playing up, we decided to stop, rest, and eat our lunch early. We also determined that, for the sake of our bodies, we were definitely going to take the minor road on down to Pontremoli and skip the steep ascent and descent entailed in following the VF walking route.
At Groppoli we noticed that vines seemed to be being grown on fruit trees, which we think were peach trees – we also saw new vines growing on very old vines or other types of tree lower down the valley. Each village had extensive allotments with an abundance of vegetables, which seems to be the norm in these remote hillside communities where the nearest supermarket is probably many kilometres away. Who wouldn’t prefer tasty homegrown vegetables anyway?
Just below Groppeli we joined the very minor road we had identified on our map and passed by the downhill path taking VF walkers down another steep track to the bottom of the valley. It looked tempting but we didn’t want to push ourselves too hard when there was a more sensible alternative.
Further down the road Julie was surprised to see a well camouflaged slow-worm moving in the leaf litter at the side of the road. Another sign that autumn is very mild here this year, as it should probably be hibernating by now. A bit of internet research suggests that it was an Italian slow-worm as distinct from the more common type of European slow worm found in the UK. Perhaps an expert on reptiles could confirm? Inga? Cousin Jon?
Although we were on tarmac for much of the day, it was not unpleasant as the slope is gentle and the sun was shining, lighting up the autumnal colours. There was also very little traffic – maybe 2-3 vehicles in an hour. At Molinello the bar/cafe was open, so we sat in the sunshine with warm drinks and brioches, watching people come and go: hunters dropping in briefly for their lunchtime shot of caffeine, and a pair of older men out on their trail bikes who were splattered in mud, presumably after trashing some hilly tracks! Plus three dogs out on the razzle, which sniffed around us a little and then headed off down the road in search of more canine interest.
Two or three kilometres before Pontremoli our small road joined a more busy road, so we were back to waving our poles at speeding drivers coming too close for comfort. At one point a sports car came roaring up the road closely followed by a speeding motorbike, apparently racing one another, with some exciting switchbacks in prospect further up the road. It is no surprise that we’ve seen so many damaged crash barriers on these winding mountain roads.
Once in Pontremoli we were delighted to find the main street blocked to traffic due to the Sunday market, and wandered down a medieval paved street looking for our accommodation. It wasn’t easy to find as there is a duplicate numbering system and we had no idea which was the current numbering. Instead, we decided to see if the cathedral was open – and it was.
Pontremoli, with the emphasis on the trem, literally means trembling bridge – one wonders why. It is full of history and historical buildings, but we sadly had little time to explore, so this is another place to add to our list for a return visit. Having had a quick look around, and the light beginning to fade, we returned to identify our billet, and were given entry to a long corridor leading to an internal courtyard and stairs…all the way to the top! But it was worth the effort of climbing as we had a wonderful view from a rooftop terrace, across the valley, along the river, and over the dome of the cathedral.
Today’s highlight was the wonderful views of the mountains bathed in autumn sunlight. We have now completed our crossing of the expansive Po valley and the Apennine mountains, and just have Tuscany to walk through to get to Rome. At long last it feels like we are getting there…………slowly but surely.