DAY 109 – PONTREMOLI TO VILLAFRANCA IN LUNINGIANA

Today was a relatively short walk to Villafranca in Luningiana as we had opted to split an exceptionally long stage of 34 kilometres into two more manageable days, enabling us to enjoy the walking and take in the sights and scenery. Nonetheless we started out early because heavy rain and winds were forecast for late afternoon, this time consistently by several forecasters.

Leaving Pontremoli centre via the reconstructed medieval Ponte del Giubileo. Was this the bridge which trembled?
View upriver from Pontremoli with the rising sun lighting up the mountains

From the historic centre we set out over the river by the Ponte del Giubileo (jubilee bridge), with a quick check for a trout. Sadly there were none. Many of the rivers we have crossed recently look like good freestone trout streams, but we haven’t seen any fish anywhere in the Apennines. Perhaps this is the consequence of over exploitation. Certainly we’ve noticed a paucity of bird life. Given the numbers of hunters we’ve seen we’ve a good idea of the reason for that.

The other side of the river was also packed with more historic buildings in narrow paved streets. Several were being used for ‘studios’ for legal, medical and other professional practices. One in particular which drew our attention appeared to be a training school for orthodontics.

Rather amusing entrance way to the school of orthodontics at Pontremoli

Further on we came upon the only modern building we’d so far seen in Pontremoli: the Chiesa di San Pietro. Originally built on the site of a Benedictine priory, it was largely destroyed in 1944 by WW2 bombing. It was rebuilt in the late 1950’s in a modern style. Although the doorway looked interesting, we weren’t quite sure about the architectural style otherwise. It was particularly unfortunate that it was locked as inside is a 12th century sandstone slab on which a labyrinth is carved representing the passing by of pilgrims. Here is another example of important cultural aspects of the Via Francigena pilgrimage route being hidden and locked away from view. It is difficult to understand why so much EU money is being spent on promoting the VF as a European cultural asset, and even as a candidate UNESCO World Heritage Site, while so many of the actual cultural treasures are locked away from view.

The new Chiesa di San Pietro at Pontremoli
Interesting detail around the doorway

Shortly after, we passed an interesting bronze of Walt Disney characters. Despite the inscription on the plinth and subsequent internet research we remain puzzled by it. We cannot find any particular association between Disney and Pontremoli other than the broad appeal to Italian children.

As is so often the case, it took a while to get clear of the urban area and the rather unattractive light industrial/commercial zone alongside the busy road out of Pontremoli. However, not long after our path pulled up onto the hillside where we found the village and sanctuary of Santissima Annunziata. Here is a 14-15th century church built in order to venerate a painting of the Annunciation – hence the village name. Shortly after its establishment an Augustinian monastery was added. Sadly the church itself was locked but we were able to access the two sets of cloisters on the south side, parts of which are now occupied by the State Archive Section of the Ministry of Culture.

Cloisters of the Santissima Annunciata monastery

Leaving Santissima Annunciata, we passed through terraced vineyards, enjoying the break from the busy road below us.

Vineyards beyond S Annunciata

From here our route continued down the valley of the River Magra to the village of Scorcetoli-Monteluscio, where we stopped for a rest on a convenient bench in the mid-morning sun. No sooner had we sat down, than a white van arrived enthusiastically sounding his horn. Stopping close to us the driver proceeded to open the side of his vehicle and it became clear that this was the butcher and cheese maker doing his local rounds. An elderly lady soon emerged from a nearby house to negotiate her purchase of fresh meat and cheese. There then ensued a conversation between the two which lasted well beyond our departure. Clearly the delivery is more than just that. It serves an important social function in much the same way that our own Postie visits do in rural locations.

We were most impressed by the vegetable gardens in this village. Envy may have described our response to what we saw more accurately, as we passed rows of huge artichokes, cabbages and lettuces continuing to flourish even now in late November.

The benefits of a long vegetable growing season

At the next village Ponticello we found the church of San Giovanni open. Inside it had a distinctly 17th century feel, with high dome over the transept decorated with biblical images. The pillars supporting the dome are dedicated to Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. It was quite light and non oppressive in the way that such imagery we’ve seen elsewhere has been.

Chiesa di S Giovanni at Ponticello

Something which really struck us, however, was the ingenuity used to resolve the matter of church heating. This is a subject which has significantly challenged us in recent years at our home church of St Mary’s.

The ultimate solution to church heating
……and even the priest has his own individual heater!

A little further into Ponticello we came upon the medieval centre of the village with its sandstone buildings and casatorre or fortified house. We interpreted this to be something akin to our own fortified manor houses or the peel towers of Northumberland. Within the narrow alleyways an exhibition of old agricultural implements had been set up and we were given a guided tour by the volunteers who were running it. One particular implement caught Tom’s eye, since less than a month ago he’d been shown one by his old school friend and farmer, Jo. This was a grain cleaning machine for removing weed seeds from threshed grain. Far from being so ancient such machines remain in regular use on a small scale today. Jo bought his quite recently from France and this one is almost exactly the same. Our guide didn’t seem convinced.

Not so ancient grain cleaner
Seed drill

After leaving Ponticello, our path took a wide loop north in order to circumnavigate a Marina Militare: presumably some sort of military or even naval establishment. On crossing the Torrente Caprio we were afforded a clear view of the high mountains to the north of us, demonstrating that the Apennines are rather more than just a chain of hills, but a significant physical barrier to east-west movement.

View to the north of the Torrente Caprio crossing

More oak and ash woodland followed as our path descended back to the flat alluvial plain of the Magra River. Here we found a convenient lunch stop with logs to sit on amongst a group of small agricultural holdings. Here there were orchards of apple and peach trees, vines and a fair amount of market gardening of vegetables. We even came upon a not insubstantial herd of goats, and enclosures of chickens.

Agricultural smallholdings in the Magra alluvial plain

On recrossing the road near Fillatiera we passed the Pieve (parish church) di Sorano. This 10th century building, one of the oldest we’ve seen, was established as a stopping place for pilgrims on the Via Francigena. Unfortunately again it was closed so we couldn’t see inside, but a lady passing by who spoke very good English kindly explained its significance to us.

The distinctly Romanesque east end of the Pieve di Sorano

We’ve yet to understand what the difference is between a pieve and chiesa, but it seems to be something significant. Perhaps one of our Italophile friends could provide an explanation via the comments feed? Manuela? Christina?

Commanding view from Filattiera

From the Pieve di Sorano our path turned left and climbed steeply up to a medieval hilltop settlement. It had been established here for strategic reasons with commanding views over the river valley and the road below. Dating from the 6th century it was established to defend the road against raiding Lombards from beyond the Cisa Pass to the north. Sadly neither the Malaspina Castle nor the Hospital of San Giacomo were open, but we were able to get our Pilgrim Passports stamped at the mairie. At the far end of the hilltop just before our descent is the Chiesa di San Giorgio. Little more than the shell of a building now, it was a place of considerable significance in the 11th and 12th centuries. The bell tower was part of a pre-existing defensive structure for controlling the Via Francigena. On the wall inside are the remains of a tablet commemorating Leadgar, a Missionary Bishop sent by Rome to evangelise the Longobard Aryans.

The Chiesa di San Giorgio and the formerly defensive bell tower adjacent

Dropping off the hilltop we passed another beautiful vegetable garden which filled us with envy.

It’s late November and this vegetable garden is still flourishing.
Eat your heart out Lois!

At the bottom of the hill we were faced with yet another steep climb followed by a stream to ford. Fortunately there were good stepping stones and as the forecast rain hadn’t yet arrived there was little water.

Another steep descent followed by a path through woodland brought us to the edge of Villafranca, our destination for the day.

Unfortunately the information about the location of our accommodation was highly confusing. Villafranca, we found out, has two Via Borgos, about 1km apart. Naturally, we went first to the one in the old part of the town down near the river but could we find Number 19? We have become accustomed now to the confusing way in which buildings are numbered, often in duplicate, but this one had us totally flummoxed. An email followed by a phone call to the proprietor drew no response. By this time the forecast rain had arrived and we began to worry that not only our pre-booked overnight accommodation but that for our much needed rest day simply didn’t exist. It’s at times like this that one needs to stop, calm down and think through all possibilities. A little research on the internet (thank goodness for cellular!) gave us the answer. At the top end of the town, not far from where we’d first entered it, is another medieval walled village with another Via Borgo – Via Borgo Ariberti. Twenty five minutes later, nearly an hour after we’d arrived in Villafranca we found it, and after some negotiation to get a bigger and better room we settled in for a much needed shower (albeit not exactly a hot one).

The right Via Borgo (Ariberti)

After a cold beer in the adjacent cafe/bar, we presented ourselves at the closest eating place (just 50m away) and indulged ourselves with quite the best meal we’ve had since arriving in Italy – and we told them that too!

A sumptuous antipasta of octopus in a porcini mushroom cream was followed by a gorgeous belly pork in chestnut sauce, in Tom’s case, and the most tender rolled goat (kid’s roll) you could imagine, in Julie’s.

Pork belly in chestnut sauce
Kid’s Roll

All was forgiven!

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