DAY 54 CLAIRVAUX TO CHATEAUVILLAIN

The second day in on any hiking trip is in our experience always a challenging one. Today was no exception.

Despite being right out in the countryside, the Hotel de l’Abbaye where we spent the last night is located on a crossroads of two quite busy D roads and our room, right on the corner, had the full benefit of both of them. Hot as it was, we needed all windows open and so enjoyed the noise of truck traffic most of the night!

Again we tried for an early start but the shortage of enthusiasm after a sleepless night got the better of us and we didn’t get away until at least twenty past eight!

Our route took us straight southwards and soon we were off the D road and onto a rural track. As we passed the last of the houses Tom greeted a dog walking lady. “Via Francigena?” she inquired. “Oui” he replied. “C’est dur?” she asked “Non, non” replied Tom “Mais, au midi, peut etre avec ce soleil!”

Once clear of houses we were onto a dirt track climbing uphill and winding through fields of arable crops. We were overtaken by two huge logging lorries which we caught up with later parked up in the woods ready for loading. Because of the logging activity there was a good track through the woods, though in damper places the vehicles had gouged out huge ruts which were fortunately reasonably hard due to the recent lack of rain.

We then turned steeply uphill onto an escarpment of mixed deciduous trees, still walking in dappled shade as the heat of the day began to build.

After following the ridge for several kilometres, our track plunged downhill and into the village of Cirfontaines-en-Azois. The village had not just one wash house, but two! Unfortunately for us neither wash house had a tap so we were unable to replenish our water bottles.

We thought we might have our lunch at the church but couldn’t find anywhere to sit, and were doubly disappointed to find the west door open but a grill preventing us from getting beyond the porch.

There was nothing for it but to carry on out of the village hoping to find a nice shady spot where we could sit, which we did on a bank adjacent to a drainage ditch. Sitting in ditches for lunch is in danger of becoming a habit! We then crossed over a pretty little millstream on the River l’Aujon, which was very thin and fishless, and past fields of maize, asparagus, flax and wheat.

We decided to go straight down the road to Orges, rather than climbing up onto another escarpment and then back down. We got a good view of the escarpment, and for a while watched a farmer turning hay on the hillside, braking hard on the way down and revving hard to get back up again. Tom also watched a kite hunting over a newly mown field. Anything to take our minds off the heat!

Orge seemed largely asleep, with very few people around. As the church wasn’t on our route we decided not to divert to look at it. We’ve quickly reverted to checking churches we walk past on the off chance they may be open, but not diverting, especially on these searingly hot days when the extra effort is unlikely to be rewarded.

We crossed over another pretty small stream, and then left the village, heading gently uphill towards a low col.

Over the brow we had a clear view of the A5, a whizzing road south we’ve used in the past, and eventually walked through an underpass to get to its west side. There was a lovely cool wind blowing through so we rested a while in its shade to cool down.

From there it was a long slog to Chateauvillain in 30 degrees with no shade and little wind, with a minor diversion to tell an aggressive Rottweiler what to do with itself as it lunged at the fence separating us!

Once in Chateauvillain we found our billet reasonably easily and let ourselves in with a door code. No meals are provided so we have an additional short hike to a supermarket for forage.

High points of the day? The walk up through the forest from Clairvaux was lovely. Otherwise it was the cold shower at our billet at the end of a very hot day…..………..but tomorrow’s forecast is hotter!