Although yesterday we felt very much in need of a day off, we haven’t felt as foot sore today as on some of our previous rest days, so maybe our feet are finally getting used to their daily pounding! A late start and leisurely breakfast probably helped too.
Our hotel is conveniently located just off the town centre adjacent to some lovely gardens with the Mairie across the other side. When we walk into town we walk past several heavily, or should we say headily, scented lilacs in full bloom and we linger to take it in.
The Mairie was able to stamp our pilgrim passports, which was as well because although the church was open there was no one there.
The present collegiale (collegiate church) building was erected from 1629 onwards, like the town itself, at the behest of King Francois following the destruction of an earlier church. It therefore lacks the medieval stained glass of other nearby cathedrals, but perhaps makes up for that by its simple classical style, lightness and loftiness.
It stands on the east side of the main town square, la Place d’Armes, which is spacious and bounded on the other three sides by elegant 16th century houses with several restaurants at street level.
According to a couple of plaques around town, Vitry-le-Francois was important in the context of the first Battle of the Marne in 1914 because it lies between the two main areas of the fighting. The church was commandeered as a hospital for treating the wounded on both sides. The Mairie was initially the command centre of resistance to the German invasion, but that quickly turned to cooperation for the preservation of the town and protection of the population.
An earlier church building dating from the C12th (?), was destroyed by Louis VII when at war with Theobold II of Champagne over a dispute with the Pope. His army burned Vitry to the ground, including the church where 1500 residents had sought refuge.
This morning, all was peaceful and there was a market in full swing in the square. We were able to find a stall selling reading glasses to replace the pair Tom has been carrying around his neck and repeatedly catching in his rucksack strap – with the inevitable consequences. There is only so much you can do with surgical tape!
Not content with just one replacement pair of reading glasses, we set off in search of another pair and found a fruit and vegetable market in the adjacent square. No glasses there, but we stocked up on oranges and tomatoes for the next few days’ lunches, before heading back out of the north gate (which we came past yesterday) to a supermarket just beyond. We are now well stocked up with bread, cheese, cold meat and reading glasses.
Chores done and lunchtime approaching we just needed to decide where to have lunch, and chose a restaurant on the main square looking towards the church. After enjoying delicious salads and a pichet of house rose, we were ready for a siesta back at our hotel!
We spent the afternoon sleeping off lunch, cleaning boots and making various repairs to rucsacks and gaiters.
Highlight of the day? Well, lunch of course!