We discovered that our hotel was the oldest building on the Grand Place, which is itself a marvel of rows of grand Flemish style houses originally built in the 1400s. We learned later that all of it had to be rebuilt after WW1 when 80% of Arras was razed to the ground, including eventually the town’s famous bell tower, after no less than 69 shell strikes.
The morning’s outing was to the Carrieres Wellington located just outside the city centre, as this had been recommended to us by several people. It turned out to be an excellent choice.
To set the context, there had been stalemate on the western front from 1914 to 1916, with very little change in positions despite several great and now infamous battles. By 1917 the Allies were looking for ways to break the stalemate and came up with a plan for a diversionary attack around Arras to allow the French to make advances further south at Chemins des Dames. Having identified disused tunnels underneath Arras which had been used as limestone quarries in medieval times, the plan was to mine the tunnels further out under the enemy lines, to hold 22,000 troops underground, out of sight, to surface at an appointed time and take the enemy by surprise.
A company of miners from North Island, New Zealand miners was brought in to develop the tunnels and prepare the space to hold the troops. The tunnels became known by the names of towns left behind: Wellington, Nelson and Blenheim (interestingly two South Island names).
Using hand picks, the Kiwi miners worked in teams through 24/7 for 6 months, opening up tunnels in the soft limestone (hard chalk) at the rate of 80 metres a day – which is phenomenal – the job was completed in time for the attack on 9 April 1917. Apparently the New Zealanders refused to pause their work to salute the British officers on grounds that it used up valuable time. They had to put up with the snub to get the work done!
Once completed, the tunnels were set up for vast numbers of troops to eat, sleep, and get ready for the forthcoming battle. It was damp and uncomfortable, but much safer than approaching the enemy frontline on the surface.
History relates that despite initial successes, there were heavy losses and no real progress was made after a German counter attack. Sadly, the French attack further south – for which this attack had been a diversion – was unsuccessful.
All in all, the exhibition was very well thought out and well presented. We would heartily recommend it!
After lunch and a short siesta we set out to see the cathedral, but once again found it closed, despite information to the contrary on its website. Fortunately the Information Centre had a VF pilgrim stamp so we got those done. As is often the way, the city council offices are housed in the Belfry, one of the most beautiful buildings in the centre. As with everywhere in the centre, it had to be rebuilt after WW1.
Around the corner we found an open church which turned out to be well used and had some interesting features, including a painting by Rubens and a statue of St Benoit of Amettes who is popular throughout this area.
And then there was the window shopping for Easter chocolates!