The Black Horse at Thurnham was our overnight billet and what a good choice it was: a comfortable, spacious room, excellent chef and cheerful, friendly staff. Make a mental note if you ever need an overnight stay en route to the Tunnel. RV with John and Jane at 0930 (how military is that? John is ex army!), and we set off eastwards full of enthusiasm to be back on our way again, though quite surprised by how much traffic there was on such a narrow road: cars, delivery vans and multiple cyclists.
Soon we arrived at Hollingbourne where John had told us about the Dirty Habit pub on the wall of which we found a useful finger post reassuring us that we were on the right path.
For much of the day our route took us along the foot of the North Downs, sometimes on road other times on a track. What a shame it was to see such vast prairie fields with every hedgerow stripped out as far as the eye could see but at least they’d contour ploughed it unlike many of the downland farmers where we live who insist on cultivating uphill and down such that all the soil is washed off and into the rivers. One passing van stopped on noticing the banner on Julie’s rucksack, curious to know about our project and the charities we’re raising funds for, and insisted on a very generous donation. How kind complete strangers can be. Thank you so much, Patsy and Sue!
Not long after, we met another pilgrim on her way from Southwark to Canterbury. She’s hoping to do the Camino next, fitting stretches on the road between work. Fitter and carrying less than us we waved her on agreeing to meet again in Canterbury.
Always one to find a good place to rest, Julie made good use of a seat near Harrietsham with company!
Above Lenham we came upon the Lenham Hillside Cross cut into the chalk slope commemorating those from the Parish lost in the the First and Second World Wars. This reminded us of the awful tragedy currently unfolding in Ukraine.
Although the promised sunshine took a while to arrive and the brisk southerly had a distinct edge to it, it didn’t rain. Our route to the next overnight billet at the Bowl Inn Charing Hill took us up the scarp slope onto the top of the downs, revealing panoramic views across the Weald of Kent. Where Jane and Jerry met us for a cup of tea. What a beautiful county Kent is! And, of course Tom feels quite at home here.
High points of the day? Well, probably catching up with John
and Jane (who Tom has known for 60 years!) and Jerry. Fascinating discussions about family, military life in France, Zimbabwe and Hong Kong, army bureaucracy and, of course, the war in Ukraine.
It’s great to be back on the road again!