Having diverted by taxi to Ardres for our overnight billet, the first task of the day was to find a taxi for the return to Licques. This was where our kind hotelier stepped in and called no less than five taxi companies before finding one that was available. Most of the taxi companies seemed to be tied up with ambulance services, taking people to medical appointments.
We departed Ardres in thick fog, arriving in Licques as it began to lift. A search for un epicerie took us to a Carrefour Contact just out of the village where we stocked up on oranges, cheese and bread. From there our route took us to Audemfort where our otherwise perfect billet at the Auberge du Moulin was closed down. Was this another victim of the absence of visitors during the Covid pandemic? On the way we passed a farmyard entrance with quite the most spectacular display of Aubretia in bloom we’ve ever seen!
After the obligatory check for a trout in the River Hem, we began the climb back up to the chalk ridge we left yesterday. Several hairpins and a cyclist who repeatedly headed up and down, later and we were once again at the crest of the ridge with panoramic views across the Hem valley to the south.
Part way up we passed a memorial stone to Mme Renee Locoche, who was killed by a V1 doodlebug on 23rd August 1944. We’d never thought that there may have been casualties from the doodlebugs this side of the Channel.
Over the ridge we met some telecoms workers repairing a fibre optic cable. We told them about our 22 day wait for repairs on the other side of the Channel, following Storm Eunice. They appeared shocked and surprised. Clearly they get a better service in France than we do.
Descending off the ridge we entered the hamlet of Val, where cultivation of strawberries appeared to be an important agricultural activity. The automated dispenser of strawberries on the side of the road reminded us of the milk dispenser at Nunton, near the Salisbury Hospital.
Fresh signs of spring continue to appear each day. Yesterday we were serenaded by plovers wheeling and diving. Was this a mating ritual or were they defending established nests? Today we watched a buzzard circling above us: the first we’ve seen this side of the Channel. No sign of kites yet, though. We found a horse chestnut in full leaf in Yeuse and a beech hedge just emerging. What a privilege it is to witness spring in this way!
We stopped at the Chappelle de Notre Dame at Yeuse, where we sat on a tree stump to eat our lunch. Down the road, the most exciting event to happen in the village in months was unraveling as one, then another concrete mixer blocked the road, delivering to a house building site.
The chapel was established in 1886 by Adolfo Belanger and consecrated by Georges Belanger, whose beatification proceedings are in progress in Rome. The walls of this chapel are covered with numerous plaques giving thanks for peoples’ safe return from war.
From Yeuse we headed east within view of the Calais-Paris railway line again, before turning back up onto the ridge. On the way we met a friendly mountain biker who stopped for a chat. He explained that he’d been doing bits of the Via Francigena on a day by day basis to fit with family commitments, but he was very encouraging about our doing it on foot. He wished us well on our way, and we him.
At the crest of the ridge we arrived at the ruin of La Chappelle de Saint Louis de Guemy. Built in the 15th century, it fell into disuse long ago and has been a designated historic monument since 1930. The views over the Hem and Val valleys from this high point are spectacular.
From the ruin of St Louis our route descended the south side of the escarpment down to Guemy. Here we found another church, seemingly abandoned, but with a cemetery full of large family tombs and others awaiting occupants.
Not long after we arrived at the village of Tournehem, our destination for the day. Crossing the river again, we had a good look for a trout but saw a shoal of Grayling (Ombre) in the shallows.
Higher up the village we found the Eglise de St Medard. Originally 12th century, it has been rebuilt twice: once in the 15th century and again in the late 17th. What stands now appears to us as an over-adorned interior. The imagery of paintings and effigies is rather overpowering, and leaves little to the personal imagination of the worshipper.
Highlights of the day? The views across the Hem valley, Grayling in the river and the ruin of St Louis at Guemy.
Come and join us, Robert! The weather can only improve from now.
Well done both! Looks lovely.